Hokkaido by Bike

The last time I posted anything was at the end of June, just as we'd boxed up our touring bikes and we were about to head off to Hokkaido, Japan for 3 weeks.  It all seems like a distant memory at this stage, I suppose it is really!

It was hands down, one of the best trips I've ever been on.  It was exhausting and exhilarating but so enjoyable and I'm egging to do it all again.  We covered just over 1250km in 20 days, and according to my speedometer we offset 189kg of CO2 doing it.

Re-assembled, loaded up and ready to go!

It took us a bit longer than expected to leave the hostel the first morning, checking and double checking that we'd re-assembled the bikes properly and that we had everything, and were actually ready to get going on our Hokkaido adventure!  We finally hit the road a little before 1:30 but we'd only planned a short first day of about 40km to get to Atsuta campsite on the west coast so we weren't under any real pressure.  Once we left the city, we also left city conveniences behind us and had our eyes peeled for a petrol station to get fuel for our stove and hopefully something to cook for dinner.  The kilometres stretched on and we didn't actualy arrive to the campsite until almost 5:30 at which stage we'd done just under 60km and not the 40km expected.  That in itself wasn't too bad, but we hadnt managed to get fuel so we had a very hearty dinner, and breakfast the next morning, of bananas and bread!  As starts go, it could've gone better, but I'm not sure either of us noticed, or even cared.  We were delighted with ourselves! The campsite was free,  the toilets were spotlessly clean and had an ample supply of toilet paper, and best of all, we had it entirely to ourselves! We scoffed down our banana sandwiches, popped the tent up, and snuggeld up in our amazngly cosy new sleeping bags and got an early night!

Gyeryongsan Mountain

I don't feel any fitter after our cycling trip around Jeju, but I suppose I must be, at least a little bit. Regardless or whether I am or not though, I was determined to use it as the kickstart I needed to get into a solid exercise regime, so last weekend Nick and I thought we'd cycle to Gyeryongsan, climb it, and cycle home!

It was lovely.  The cycle there was a little over 13 kilometers.  A good 6k at the start was all along the cycle track on the banks of the Gapcheon river, the river that Daejeon is built on, then there was a nasty 2-3k stretch along a fast moving dual carraigeway, followed by 4ish kilometer stretch along lovely country roads and lanes.

Gapcheon Cycle Track Section

Nasty, Fast Moving Section along the Dual Carraigeway

Nice Back Road Section

We didn't get up particularly early so when we got to the foot of the mountain it was about half twelve.  Gyeryongsan National Park, which translates as Rooster Head Mountain, is famous for two things: the cherry blossoms in spring; and a meal of makgeolli (unstrained milky-looking rice wine) and pajeon ( a cross between a crepe and an omlette, usually with seafood and scallions through it) after your hike.  However, it being lunch time when we arrived, we thought we'd tuck in before the hike.

Locals Taking Advantage of the Shady Mountain Stream

The hike itself is about 9km, passing two temples and a waterfall, and reaching two peaks.  The first temple you pass, is Donghak-sa, which is the most famous one in the national park, and as far as I'm aware it's just for nuns.  Then its on up past the waterfall, Eunseon Pokpo, which is pretty unimpressive at the moment given the lack of rain we've had this monsoon season.  From the waterfall, the trail starts getting noticeably steeper, and remains so, until you come to Gwaneumbong Peak (816m).

Donghak-sa Temple

Simple Simon on the Way Up!

The Top!

We didn't delay too long at the top, being out in the sunshine wasn't ideal so we carried on across the ridge, until we got to Sambulbong (775m).  We had a brief sos there before starting the just-as-steep decent, passing Nammaetap, another temple, on the way down.

The View from the Top.
You can just about make out the concrete jungle that is Deajeon in the background

Me Acting the Monkey Along the Ridge!

Nammaetap Temple

I have to say I was pretty shattered when we got to the bottom, and needed a bit of a break before getting on my bike for the cycle home.  But then, once I was actually on it, it was grand, all those kilometers around Jeju have paid off after all! In fact, we both enjoyed it so much, we did it all over again yesterday!  This time though, we set off nice and early and were back down to enjoy Pajeon and Dongdongju (a cousin of Magkeolli) in the early afternoon.  Much better doing it this way around!

Local Mayhem in the Stream again this Weekend!

A Much Deserved Feast of Pajeon, Dongdongju and lots of Banchan (sidedishes)